This is a lined bra and requires inner and outer pieces to be cut.
Cut out all pieces. Mark the STRAP INSERTION POINTS on the BAND and the areas to leave unstitched as indicated on the pattern by the dashed lines at the center front (CF) and around the FRONT STRAP INSERTION point.
Match the side seams of the BAND and CUP sections RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin, straight stitch and finish with an overlocker or zig zag stitch.
Pin and straight stitch the bust darts on the CUP. Finish as before.
Repeat for the inner and outer bra pieces.
Lay the inner and outer bra pieces RIGHT SIDES together.
Cut two 10cm lengths of cord and loop though the bra rings. Fold in half and insert between the inner and outer fabric at the STRAP INSERTION POINT on the BAND.
For support at the CF pin a length of bias binding or non-stretch tape (max. width 1.5cm) up to the CF seam allowance of the inner fabric.
Cut four squares of garment fabric and place over the STRAP INSERTION POINTS on the CUP. Sandwich each INSERTION POINT between two pieces.
Stitch the seam allowance using zig-zag stitch as shown, leaving open the areas marked by dashed lines.
Backstitch over the inserted straps on the BAND for extra strength.
Trim the seam allowances.
Turn the garment RIGHT SIDES OUT via the CF opening.
Fold the CF seam allowance to the inside. Press all seams.
Top stitch using zig-zag stitch approx. 1cm from the edge leaving open the CUP STRAP INSERTION POINT and the CF. This time do stitch over the BAND STRAP INSERTION POINT.
This will create the channel to insert the tie cords.
Cut 2.5m of cord. Ideally using a seam turner or other tool such as a crochet hook, feed the cord though the channels of the upper seam of the bra.
Begin by inserting the hook into the CF and out of the first CUP STRAP INSERTION POINT.
Attach the cord to the hook and pull though to the CF.
Loop the other end of the cord first through the bra slider then through the first bra ring.
Pass the cord back through the bra slider to complete the strap.
Insert the hook into the second STRAP INSERTION POINT on the BAND and out through the first INSERTION POINT.
Attach the cord to the hook again then pull through the second STRAP INSERTION POINT on the BAND.
Loop through the second bra slider and bra ring and back through the slider.
Insert the hook into the second CF and out through the second STRAP INSERTION POINT on the CUP.
Attach the cord again and pull though the CF.
Insert the hook into the lower opening on the CF and out though the other. Attach 1m of cord to the end and pull all the way through. Adjust the upper cord to tighten the upper seam and straps. Adjust the lower cord to tighten the lower seam. Trim the cords to the required length.
Open up the center front and sew the hook and eyes in position and onto the bias tape previously added to the inside.
Sew through the bias and inner fabric of the garment and try to avoid sewing to the outer fabric.
Complete by hand sewing the CF together using a small stitch like prick stitch. Sew around the hooks and eyes.
Apply silk bows to the STRAP INSERTION POINTS if desired.