Cut out all the pattern pieces.
You will need one set of each for the outer fabric, one set for the lining and as many tulle skirt pieces as you desire (recommended 1-3 layers).
Mark the all DARTS using continuous speed tailor’s tack or tailor’s chalk.
Fold the darts with fabric RIGHT SIDES together. Pin and stitch the darts for the FRONT and BACK BODICE pieces, for both the outer and lining pieces.
TIP: Follow the Stitching Darts tutorial included with your pattern files.
Lay the lining and outer FRONT BODICE piece RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin in place around the armhole and neckline. Stitch the seam allowance.
Notch the seams and trim to 7mm.
Repeat for the two BACK BODICE pieces.
Open up the side seam of the FRONT and BACK BODICE and lay RIGHT SIDES together. Stitch from the bottom of the lining side seam to the bottom of the outer side seam, joining BACK to FRONT.
Notch the intersection of the FRONT and BACK where they meet at the underarm point.
Turn the BODICE RIGHT SIDES out and roll out the armhole and neckline seams. Press them flat.
Arrange all the skirt layers. Begin with the outer layer, then insert the tulle, then the lining.
Pin together around he waistline.
Stitch together within the seam allowance.
Lay the ZIP OPENING BINDING piece along the line shown on the skirt pattern.
Pin and stitch around the line as shown on the pattern pieces through all layers of the skirt.
Carefully snip down the central line of between the two rows of stitches. Finish approx 1cm before the end.
Snip from the central line to the corner points at the end of the zip opening.
Turn the binding to the WRONG SIDE of the skirt.
Join the bodice to the SKIRT.
Start from the centre back.
Pin the BODICE and SKIRT RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER at the waistline.
Ensure to line up the the BACK BODICE centre back seam allowance with the new ZIP BINDING piece inserted into the skirt.
Stitch the seam allowance.
Finish the seam allowance with an overlocker or zig-zag stitch. Trim if necessary.
ADVANCED TIP: Use bias binding to conceal the waistline seam allowance.
With the garment WRONG SIDES OUT using a large machine stitch, sew the centre back BODICE and ZIP BINDING together.
Lay the zip tape down the centre of the seam allowance. Pin to either side of the seam allowance (avoiding pinning through the garment).
Using a zip foot sew the zip to each seam allowance folding the garment away to avoid sewing through.
Turn the garment RIGHT SIDES out.
Using the zip foot and starting from the right side, top stitch through the garment, zip tape and seam allowance the full length of the zip, backstitching over the end before completing up to the top again.
Using small scissors, carefully open up the machine basting stitches down the centre back.
Fold the seam allowance of the BACK BODICE shoulders inside itself.
Insert the FRONT BODICE shoulder into the BACK BODICE shoulder.
Top stitch close to the seam on the BACK to secure.
Finish the hems for the lining and outer SKIRT either by adding a trim, creating a rolled hem, or using an edge stitch on an overlocker.
Below shows how to add a lace trim:
Apply the trim as you sew, leaving approx. 1cm unstitched to allow to fold. Complete the trim edge by folding the ends of the trim as shown and stitch in place to secure the loop.
Stitch with zig-zag.
Fold trim to WS and top-stitch with zig-zag stitch to secure.
To complete the TIE lay both pieces RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin then stitch the seam allowance all the way round leaving an unstitched gap of about 10cm.
Clip and trim the seam allowance.
Turn the TIE RIGHT SIDES out. Fold the seam allowance of the opening inside and press the whole TIE flat.
Top stitch close to the edge all the way round to secure the opening and strengthen the TIE.