KA HANAU 1:
E ʻoki i nā ʻāpana kumu a pau.
With the TOP pieces RIGHT SIDES together, pin and stitch the side seam allowances.
Finish the seam allowance of the top edge using an overlocking stitch or zig-zag. Fold back the top edge 2.5cm and press.
Mark and fold the pleats – making sure to mark with the side seams in the centre, stitch and press.
KA HANAU 2:
Match each front pleat to its corresponding back pleat.
Sew across the join using a tight zig zag stitch.
KA HANAU 3:
Prepare the SHOULDER BINDING by folding and pressing the seam allowances to the WRONG SIDE.
Prepare the TOP shoulders by folding the fabric downwards at an angle toward the WRONG SIDE, creating more pleats.
KA HANAU 4:
Finish the shoulder by encasing the TOP shoulders inside the SHOULDER BINDING.
Secure the edges of the SHOULDER BINDING with small hand stitches to secure in place.
KA HANAU 5:
Waiho i KA WAISTBAND 1 NA AOE Akau me ka WAISTBAND 2. E humuhumu i nā ʻāpana humuhumu a hiki i nā māka. Peʻi a kaomi i ka WAISTBAND i ka hapalua o ka lōʻihi, mākaukau e noi.
KA HANAU 6:
Gather the waistline of the TOP to fit the WAISTBAND.
An easy way to do this is to sew a row of straight stitch on the longest stitch setting, wrap one thread end around a needle then gently pull the other end to gather. Secure the second thread end to the pin.
Pin and stitch the WAISTBAND to the TOP matching the centre front and back points. If you intend to make the dress or jumpsuit, sew just within the 1.5cm seam allowance.
KA HANAU 7:
NO KA LUMUKU AOLE
Follow the tutorial to make the SKIRT or TROUSERS.
Hoʻohālikelike i ke alo waena, back and side seams of the TOP and SKIRT or TROUSER RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin a humuhumu. E hoʻopau i ka hāʻawi humuhumu.
KA HANAU 8:
E pelu i ka TIE i ka hapalua ma kona loa MA KA AE KAU. E kau i kahi kaula lōʻihi ma waena. E humuhumu i luna e hoʻopaʻa i ke kaula i ka TIE. E pine a humuhumu i ka haawina humuhumu. Huki akahele i ke kaula e hoohuli ana i na aoao akau.
Inā 'oe i kekahi loop turner:
E pelu i ka TIE i ka hapalua o ka loa a humuhumu i ke ala humuhumu. E huli'ākau aoao mai ka hoʻohana 'ana i ka ulana turner.
E hoʻopau i ka TIE ma ke kaomi ʻana iā ia a hoʻohuli i nā welau maka ma lalo o ʻelua a hoʻohana i nā humuhumu liʻiliʻi e paʻa. Hookomo i loko o ke kāʻei, e hoʻokō 'ia.
Inā loaʻa iā ʻoe kahi mea hoʻopaʻa paʻa hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohana me ka stitch zig-zag e hana i kāu mau pili..