STEP 1:
Tapahia atu nga mongamonga katoa tauira.
Fold the darts of the CUPS and sew following the curved line as shown.
Trim down to 5mm and press. Press the main fabric darts toward the centre back and press the lining darts toward the centre front. This will lessen the bulk when the pieces are sewn together.
STEP 2:
Place the TIE RIGHT SIDES together with the CUP. Ensure the longer edge of the TIE is toward the inside of the garment.
Pin me tuitui.
Trim the seam allowance to 5mm and press open.
STEP 3:
Lay the CUP and TIE pieces RIGHT SIDES together with the lining.
Pin and stitch around the underarm and neckline.
Trim the seam allowances and clip the curve around the underarm and the end of the TIE.
Turn RIGHT SIDES out and press.
STEP 4:
SEWING THE CUPS TO THE WAISTBAND. This looks complicated but it is straight forward when you get the hang of it! Not sewing the CUP lining into the centre back seam allowance initially will allow you to fold the lining over and make a tidy edge for the zip end.
Match the centre front of one of the CUPS together with the centre front of the outer WAISTBAND fabric. Arrange so it aligns with the ‘V’ shape as shown on the pattern piece in grey.
Pin both the outer fabric and lining of the CUP to the waistband up until 10cm from the end. At this point, turn the CUP lining away from the seam line and continue pinning the outer CUP to the outer WAISTBAND.
Start sewing from the centre front up until the folded away CUP lining. At this point, backstitch to secure, lift the needle and pull the work forward slightly and adjust the CUP lining back down in place. Backstitch again to secure then continue sewing up until the centre back. It won’t matter that there is a small gap between the separate seam lines.
Repeat this process for the second CUP, beginning by matching it to the centre front.
Starting from the centre back this time, work as before sewing to 10cm from the start through the outer WAISTBAND and CUP. Backstitch, lift up the presser foot and bring the work forward, turn the CUP lining back down into the seam line, backstitch to secure and continue sewing till the the centre front. Be careful not to sew the second CUP into this seam at the centre front point.
Match the WAISTBAND lining RIGHT SIDES together with the lining of the CUPS. Pin and stitch in the same manner as before, leaving the 10cm at the beginning and end of the work. This time sew just within the seam allowance.You will end up with an accordion like set of joins either end.
STEP 5:
Finish the centre front and back seam allowances of the SKIRT pieces.
Lay the two SKIRT pieces RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin and stitch the centre front seam allowance.
STEP 6:
Lay the outer WAISTBAND RIGHT SIDES together with the SKIRT matching the centre front points. Pin me tuitui. Press the seam allowance toward the CUPS.
STEP 7:
With the garment WRONG SIDES out, match the centre back seam lines.
Sew from the top centre back of the CUP to the zip point on the SKIRT using a larger than normal stitch.
Without removing the needle switch your regular sewing stitch, secure with backstitch, then continue sewing to the hemline.
Press open seams.
STEP 8:
Lay the zip along the centre back seam line, 1cm down from the top.
Use a zip foot and sew through the zip tape and centre back seam allowance only (do not sew through the main garment fabric).
STEP 9:
With the garment WRONG SIDES out, fold back and tuck under the seam allowances of the WAISTBAND lining. Pin and sew by hand into place around the zip and WAISTBAND seam allowance.
STEP 10:
Turn the garment RIGHT SIDES out.
Topstitch either by hand or using the machine around the zip, sewing through the main garment fabric, zip tape and seam allowance.
STEP 11:
Carefully unpick the larger stitches used to secure the zip opening, revealing the zip.
STEP 12:
Create a rolled hem. Use a rolled hem foot or fold the hem back approximately 5mm, then fold back once more to conceal the raw edge. Hem stitch by hand or sew on the machine to secure. Press.
Complete by applying a hook and eye above the zip tape.