Hīkoi 1:
Tapahia nga waahanga tauira katoa.
With the TOP pieces RIGHT SIDES together, pin and stitch the side seam allowances.
Finish the seam allowance of the top edge using an overlocking stitch or zig-zag. Fold back the top edge 2.5cm and press.
Mark and fold the pleats – making sure to mark with the side seams in the centre, stitch and press.
Hīkoi 2:
Match each front pleat to its corresponding back pleat.
Sew across the join using a tight zig zag stitch.
Hīkoi 3:
Prepare the SHOULDER BINDING by folding and pressing the seam allowances to the WRONG SIDE.
Prepare the TOP shoulders by folding the fabric downwards at an angle toward the WRONG SIDE, creating more pleats.
Hīkoi 4:
Finish the shoulder by encasing the TOP shoulders inside the SHOULDER BINDING.
Secure the edges of the SHOULDER BINDING with small hand stitches to secure in place.
Hīkoi 5:
Lay WAISTBAND 1 RIGHT SIDES together with WAISTBAND 2. Sew the seam allowances up to the markers. Fold and press the WAISTBAND in half lengthways, ready to apply.
Hīkoi 6:
Gather the waistline of the TOP to fit the WAISTBAND.
An easy way to do this is to sew a row of straight stitch on the longest stitch setting, wrap one thread end around a needle then gently pull the other end to gather. Secure the second thread end to the pin.
Pin and stitch the WAISTBAND to the TOP matching the centre front and back points. If you intend to make the dress or jumpsuit, sew just within the 1.5cm seam allowance.
Hīkoi 7:
FOR THE JUMPSUIT OR DRESS
Follow the tutorial to make the SKIRT or TROUSERS.
Match the centre front, back and side seams of the TOP and SKIRT or TROUSER RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin me tuitui. Whakaotihia te tahua tui.
Hīkoi 8:
Porouhia te TAI kia haurua ki te taha o tona roa TAHA TATAU. Whakanohoia he aho roa ki waenganui. Tuia ki runga kia mau te aho ki te TIE. Pin ka tuia te utu tui. Ata toia te aho ka huri i nga TAHA TATAU ki waho.
Mena kei a koe he kaitahuri hurihuri:
Purihia te TIE kia haurua te roa ka tuia te tahua tui. Hurihia nga TAHA TATAU ki waho ma te whakamahi i te kaitahuri tui.
Finish the TIE by pressing it and turning the raw ends under twice and use small stitches to secure. Insert into the WAISTBAND to complete.
Mena kei a koe he apiti here ka taea e koe te whakamahi ki te tuia zig-zag hei hanga i o here.