Corset Tutorial

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Cut out all pieces marking any balance marks using tailor’s tacks.

If you are using iron on interfacing, begin by applying to the main garment pieces.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

One by one, pin and stitch each section to the next starting with Front 1 working out to the back.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Clip curved seams to allow them to lay flat once pressed.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Press open all of the seams over a tailor’s ham ensuring to use a press cloth on delicate fabric.

Repeat steps 2-4 for the lining pieces.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Fold the Back Gusset in half Right Sides together. Pin and stitch the top and bottom seam allowances.

Clip the corner point, turn RS out and press.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Locate the waist line on the Wrong Side lining. Mark with a dressmaker’s pen or with a basting stitch.

Lay the petersham along this line and pin.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Stitch a single line down the middle of the petersham to secure to the lining.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Create the corset loops by placing a length of strong fabric or tape (here I have used a stiff bias binding) over the pattern piece Back Corset Loops.
Line one edge of the tape up with the line closest to the curved loop and pin onto the paper.
Individually cut the cord and arrange it as per the design. Repeat for the other side.

You may wish to prepare the cord and then arrange them in position as you stitch them individually at the sewing machine. Stitch directly though the paper. Once complete carefully tear away the paper.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Lay the completed loops onto the Back Gusset seam allowance and pin. Stitch close to the loops on the tape to secure to the Gusset.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Lay the lining RS together with the main garment. Place the Back Gusset piece with the loops facing the RS of the main garment. Arrange it so the tape edge is just within the seam allowance so it is concealed once stitched.

The Back Gusset can be attached to either side but if you have a preference, ensure to attach the Back Gusset to the correct side at this point.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

 

Repeat step 10 for the opposite side.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Turn the garment right sides out and press the center back seams.

Match the lining and outer garment seams and pin.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

If using 1cm wide boning, topstitch 7mm either side of each seam. Sew directly though the outer and inner garment to create channels for the bones to go into.

Create a channel 14mm wide at both centre back points also. Begin each with the first line of topstitching approx. 3mm off from the seam allowance holding the loops. This extra topstitching also acts to reinforce the loops.

After cutting each bone to the right length (3cm less than the final length of the channels) add caps to both ends and insert.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

With bones inserted, stay stitch the upper and lower seam allowances. Stitch approx. 5mm up from the seamline.

Trim down to 5mm.

The two bones closest to the center front can be gently bent into shape to create the curve over the bust.

 

 

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Take the bias strip and match up to the lower edge of the corset.

You will need to fold the bias to create the points. To start, stitch up to the point, backstitch then remove from the machine.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Fold the bias back at an angle in line with the seam. Pin.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Fold the bias back over and in line with the corset edge. Pin.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Stitch directly over the folded corner point and continue on to the next. Repeat steps 15-18 for the other points.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

To complete the points, fold the bias strip over and fold under its seam allowance. Pin in place.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Fold back the remaining bias as shown allowing folds to appear either side of the point.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

At the center back, fold the end seam allowance of the bias back on its self, concealing the garment edge.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Fold the bias down.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Then fold the bias completely over to complete the edge.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Use slip stitch to secure the bias to the lining.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Corset Tutorial

Ensure to slip stitch the bias up and down the folds either side of the points to keep them neat.

Repeat from step 17 to complete the upper edge of the garment.

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