1.5cm seam allowance included

Cut out all the pattern pieces.

Place the SHOULDER piece RIGHT SIDES together with the SHOULDER LINING.

Pin and stitch around the neckline and centre backs and along the shoulder seam allowances.

Clip and trim the curved seam allowances to allow them to lie flat once turned to the RIGHT SIDE.

Turn RIGHT SIDES out and press.

Using a hand stitch or using the largest stitch on your machine, sew a line of straight stitch between the GATHER marks on the BACK piece. Sew midway along the seam allowance

Loop the thread in a figure of eight around a pin at one end then gently pull the thread to form the gathers. When you have gathered enough so the fabric fits between the GATHER marks on the SHOULDER piece, secure in a figure of eight around another pin.

Repeat for the FRONT.

With the garment WRONG SIDES out, align the FRONT and BACK side seam allowances.
Pin, stitch and finish.
Press.

Finish the SIDE underarm section. The above diagram shows the method of using a custom cut strip of bias. If you are using prepared bias please adapt to suit your bias width. For custom bias make yours approx. 4.5cm x 30cm long, you will need 2.

Pin the bias strip in place along the underarm section. Stitch a 1.5cm seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to about 7.5mm.
Fold over the outer edge of the bias by 1cm.
Fold the bias strip over and around the raw edge to conceal. Pin in place on the WRONG SIDE. Use a hand stitch such as slip stitch to secure the bias in place or topstitch close to the seam line.

Lay the FRONT and SHOULDER RIGHT SIDES together.
Pin and stitch. Remove the hand stitching that formed the gathers originally.
Finish the seam allowance using zig-zag stitch or an overlocker.

Repeat STEP 5 for the BACK and SHOULDER.
The SHOULDER centre back pieces will meet at the centre back of the BACK.

Complete the garment by adding a hook and eye or loop and button at the top centre back.
Finish the hem with a hemmer foot or create a rolled hem by hand.