卡里服饰PDF花臣

1.5cm seam allowance included

Begin by cutting out the lengths for the skirts. Cut two lengths, 55cm x the fabric width from the main garment fabric and two lengths 50cm x the fabric length of the lining fabric.

Mark the dart placements using tailor’s tacks on the FRONT and BACK bodice pieces.

Pin and stitch the darts. Press them to set the seams then press the darts towards the side seams.

Lay the BACK RIGHT SIDES together with the BACK lining.

Pin and stitch the neckline and armholes.

Repeat for the FRONT pieces.

Clip and trim the seam allowances of the BACK and FRONT as shown.

Turn BACK and FRONT to the RIGHT SIDES. Press the seams flat.

Fold the seam allowance of the BACK shoulders inside themselves. Insert the seam allowance of the FRONT shoulder into the BACK.

Topstitch close to the seam line to complete.

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Open up the BACK lining from the main garment. Place RIGHT SIDES together with the FRONT ensuring to accurately match the underarm points.

Pin and stitch directly from the bottom of the lining to the bottom of the main garment. On the side where the zip will go sew 7cm either way from the underarm point.

Notch the seam intersections at the underarm point.

Lay the two skirt pieces of the main garment fabric RIGHT SIDES together. Pin and stitch along one side seam to create a continuous length. Repeat for the lining fabric.

Use either a gathering foot or run a length of large stitches (by hand or machine) and gather by hand, inside the seam allowance of the skirt waist. If using a gathering foot, sew a test swatch to ensure you get the correct gauge. Gather the skirt to fit the bodice waist.

Take the now gathered skirt and fold RIGHT SIDES together.

Sew along the remaining side seam allowance from the hemline up 33.5cm. This is the zip end point.

Place the main garment SKIRT RIGHT SIDES together with the main BODICE. Pin the skirt and bodice seam allowances together starting from the zip opening seam allowance.

Pin and stitch the seam allowance. Repeat for the lining pieces.

Sew the main garment and lining pieces separately.

With the garment WRONG SIDES out, separate the lining from the main garment and pin along the main garment zip opening.

Secure using temporary large machine stitches. ( Do not sew the lining fabric at this stage).

Apply the zip tape to the seam allowances.

Pin and stitch one side at a time securing only to the seam allowances. Use a zip foot.

From the RIGHT SIDE of the garment, topstitch around the zip tape, again using the zip foot.

Once complete, carefully unpick the large stitches to reveal the zip.

With the garment WRONG SIDES out and the lining facing you, fold inside the seam allowances along the zip opening. Pin to the zip tape and secure using small hand stitches, taking care to sew only through the zip tape and not through to the main garment fabric.

Complete the dress by creating a rolled hem on the skirt. Use either a hem foot or manually turn the hem over approx. 5mm twice and secure using the machine or slip stitches by hand.

Press the garment to complete.