STEP 1:
Please read the printing instructions!
Create the welt pockets on the FRONT pieces. Follow the welt pocket tutorial included or find it here: https://www.the-tailoress.com/product/welt-pockets-pdf-sewing-pattern/
STEP 2:
With the TIES WRONG SIDES up, fold back 1cm of one end. Fold back 5mm along both of the long sides and press. Then fold the TIE in half concealing the raw edges previously turned in. Stitch in place.
One end will remain a raw edge, this will be sewn into the garment side seam.
STEP 3:
Fold the COLLAR RIGHT SIDES together lengthways. Sew the bottom seam allowances together. Clip the corner and trim the seam allowances. Turn RIGHT SIDES out and press.
STEP 4:
Lay the FRONT and BACK RIGHT SIDES together. Pin and stitch the shoulder seam allowances.
Repeat for the other side.
STEP 5:
Lay the SLEEVE RIGHT SIDES together with the FRONT and BACK pieces. Matching the underarm points.
Pin and stitch the seam allowance between the underarm points.
Press the seam open. Repeat for the other SLEEVE.
STEP 6:
With the garment WRONG SIDES out, match the SLEEVE seam allowances and the side seams of the FRONT and BACK.
Insert the TIE at the tie insertion point of the side seam on one side. Insert it between the FRONT and BACK so that it is visible on the RIGHT SIDE of the garment once sewn.
Pin and stitch the SLEEVE from the underarm point at the sleeve opening, around the curve to the lowest inside point of the SLEEVE. Finish the seam allowances by clipping the curved edge and trimming to 7mm.
Pin and stitch the side seam from the underarm point to the hemline. Turn RIGHT SIDES out and press the seams allowances.
STEP 7:
With the RIGHT SIDES out, pin the COLLAR around the centre front and neckline of the FRONT and BACK.
Pin the remaining TIE at the tie insertion point on the opposite side to where the side seam TIE is placed, on the centre FRONT.
Stitch just within the seam allowance.
STEP 8:
Follow Steps 4-6 to create the lining, ignoring references to the TIES and there’s no need to clip the SLEEVE seam allowance.
STEP 9:
Arrange the lining RIGHT SIDES together with the main garment. Pin and stitch around the centre front opening, including the COLLAR.
Stitch in place.
Turn RIGHT SIDES out and press.
STEP 10:
Turn back the seam allowances of the SLEEVE at both openings. Secure with small hand stitches. Press.
Turn up the main garment hemline 1 inch / 2.5cms and press. Turn up the lining hemline the same amount and pin. Sew together using hem stitch.