Inserting a Zip

Use this way of inserting zips for use at necklines, center and front backs on tops and dresses. The zip is placed directly on a seam-line and will appear part concealed when complete.

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Inserting a Zip

  1. Machine baste the zip opening in the garment and press open.
  2. With the zip closed, lay it along the seam line, and pin one side in place.
  3. Open the zip and stitch using a zip foot close to the teeth. Fold the garment under so you are concentrating only on the zip and seam allowance. Stitch only through the zip tape and seam allowance of the garment. (Do not stitch through the main garment fabric). Stitch from bottom to top.
  4. Close the zip and stitch up the other side. Re-position the needle so that it is close to the teeth. Before reaching the zip tab, put the needle position down to secure your work, then open the zip, pulling the tab past the foot. This will stop the foot moving around the bulk of the zip tab making your stitch-line curve out. Stitch from bottom to top. Close the zip again and open the garment laying the zip flat. Press using a cloth.
  5. Now you can stitch through the zip tape, seam allowance and garment fabric. Start at the top of the zip, go down one side, across at the bottom and then up the other side. You can do this from the front or back , it is just important to ensure you stitch an equal distance from the zipper teeth.
  6. Press again and remove machine basting.