Tailored Jacket Construction Method

Tailored Jacket Construction Method

The Tailoress PDF Sewing Patterns - Tailored Jacket Construction Method

How to sew a jacket or coat.

There are many stages that go into creating a jacket or coat.

It is time consuming and fiddly! But well worth-while.

You will need to draft a jacket or coat block firstly. I suggest

using one of the following books to do this;

Some techniques you should be familiar with before starting:

tailors tacks


pad stitch

feather stitch

bar tacking

catch stitch

fell stitch

hem stitch

continuous speed tailors tack

Also take the time to learn about some basic pressing

techniques and consider acquiring some pressing equipment.

It is a large part of shaping the garment and giving it that professional

finish and so should be a high priority.

Some materials and other equipment you will need:

fabric shears

tailors chalk

embroidery scissors



stay tape

tacking thread

thread (same colour as garment fabric)


Before constructing your jacket/coat

First of all, always make a test garment (toile) to ensure your pattern is correct! You won’t need to apply all the pressing and stitching techniques to making the toile, its just to see if the pattern makes a garment that is to your liking and the style and fit is good.

Guidelines for deciding if your jacket/coat fits well:

Vertical Seams – hang perpendicular and straight to the floor.

Collar – nicely hugs the back neckline without causing wrinkling or gaping across the back

Fronts – hand straight at the hemline without pulling toward the front or back.

Lapels – hug the bust-line without gaping when the garment is buttoned.

Bust-line dart – point to, and stop short of, fullest part of bust.

Back vent – hangs straight an perpendicular to floor without spreading open across seat.

Shoulder seams – lie on top of shoulders and appear straight, without pulling toward the front or back.

Hem – is straight and parallel to floor at a fashionable and flattering length. Hemline does not hike up in front or back.

Set-in sleeves – are smooth and pucker free with softly rounded caps. There are no diagonal wrinkles in sleeve cap, and sleeve does not pull across upper arm.

Garment – fits around body smoothly without pulls or wrinkles. Reaching does not cause strain across upper back. Also the garment is comfortable over clothing intended to be worn with it.

(Adapted from The Classic Guide To Sewing The Perfect Jacket, Tailoring, by The Creative Publishing International)

Construction Method

1- Shape the under collar.

2- Shape the jacket front.

3- Shape the jacket back: make a back stay; shape the shoulder seam.

4- Tailor the collar and adjust for the Turn of the Cloth.

5- Tailor the pockets.

6- Tailor sleeves; apply shoulder pads and sleeve head.

7- Finish hems and vents.

8- Apply lining.

9- Top-stitching.

10- Buttons and buttonholes.